Weaving Structure

Wedge Weave, Leno Lace, Deflected Doubleweave, Ripsmatta, Clasped Weft. There are a lot of strange names for weaving structures. Sometimes structure involves skipping a warp with the weft or twisting a warp thread around its neighbor before inserting the weft. It also could involve alternating thick and thin yarn or going around a warp thread several times with the weft effectively piling more weft up in one place. These are all weaving structures.

  • Plain Weave – Probably the best known weaving structure is Plain Weave, where the weft thread literally just goes over one warp thread and under one, in and out. The second most often found structure is probably twill. Unbeknownst to most people, that is the structure of blue jeans and what we call denim. The diagonal lines in the fabric are the telling feature.
  • Twill – Twill may seem hard to explain, but it is easy to do and it is very versatile, allowing the weaver to create amazing, intricate and beautiful generally repeating patterns in the woven cloth. Twill involves placing the weft thread over and under the warp threads in repeating but not even quantities, sometimes over several before going under one. In each successive weft row, the pattern of over and under is advanced by one (or more) weft thread so if, for example, the weft threads are placed over warp threads 1,2, and 3 and under warp thread 4 in the first weft row, the weft threads would be placed over warp threads 2,3, and 4 and under thread 5 in the second row. This repetitive process produces a diagonal pattern in the cloth. By changing the over-under pattern or the number of warp threads in each group, columns and rows of patterns such as diamonds, boxes and flowers are possible.
    Twills can also be irregular of “broken” with skips in the overall pattern. Twill patterns have their own collection names. Some of the names describe the appearance of the fabric like M’s and O’s or Point Twill and some are not as descriptive like Rosepath, Dornik Twill or Wall-of-Troy.
  • Lace Weaves – The family of Lace weaves, including Leno, Huck, Bronson, Atwater-Bronson and others, produce either open and airy fabric or closed patterns depending upon the yarns used and how the loom is set up.
  • Supplemental Yarn Weaves – On the top of a Plain Weave, Twill or other structures, patterns can be woven. This is accomplished by utilizing additional layers of warp threads or additional weft threads. All layers are woven simultaneously with the “background” fabric. Some of these structures include Summer and Winter, Overshot, Supplemental Warp or Supplemental Weft.
  • Color-and-Weave – Although not a weaving structure, color-and-weave is a large family of weaving pattern effects. In color-and-weave, contrasting threads are alternated in both the warp and the weft threads. Usually light and dark colors are used but contrasting size, luster and smoothness are also candidates. Depending upon the weaving pattern, this can produce boxes of narrow stripes as in Log Cabin or patterns (frequently large flowers) with a contrasting shadow as in Shadow Weave.

This is just a sample of the structures and pattern effects that can be woven. There are a lifetime of possibilities.